Dryer Repair — Heat Back Today, Same Day.

No heat — electric dryer

A burned-out heating element is the most common cause, but a blown thermal fuse or failed cycling thermostat produces the same symptom. We test each component individually and replace only what has actually failed — not a bundle of parts to cover guesses.

No heat — gas dryer

Three components account for nearly all gas dryer heat failures: the igniter, the gas valve solenoids, and the radiant flame sensor. When any of them stops working, the drum spins normally but produces no warmth. Thermal fuse failures can layer on top after an overheat. Our technicians test each part individually — damp clothes after a full cycle is the tell, and we pinpoint which component has given out.

Clothes taking multiple cycles to dry

Extended drying times almost always trace to the exhaust path. Lint collects in the ductwork over months and years, gradually narrowing airflow until the dryer can’t push heat through efficiently. A damaged drum seal is a secondary factor — heat that escapes around the drum never reaches your clothes. We run through the exhaust path, measure airflow at the exit, inspect the drum seal, and test heating output before signing off.

High-pitched squealing

A squeal that rises and falls with drum speed almost always points to a worn idler pulley or drum support rollers losing their lubrication. Caught early, it’s an inexpensive fix. Left alone, the drum eventually stops turning.

Rhythmic thumping or banging

A thump that repeats with every drum revolution usually means support rollers have developed flat spots from wear. Banging can also indicate a broken drum glide or something caught between the drum and the cabinet. We open the drum and find the cause.

Drum not spinning

A motor that hums while the drum sits completely still has a broken drive belt — the belt wraps the drum and the motor pulley, and when it snaps, the drum stops cold. Belt replacement is one of the more predictable dryer repairs: we stock them for all major brands and have the drum back to tumbling the same day. If the belt is intact, we move to the motor and idler pulley.

Overheating or thermal cutoff tripping repeatedly

Restricted airflow forces the heating element to run hotter and longer than it was designed for. A failed cycling thermostat can also cause runaway heat. This is a safety concern — we address the underlying cause rather than just resetting the cutoff.

Won't start at all

No hum, no response — usually a failed door switch, blown thermal fuse, or bad start switch. Control board failures happen on newer digital units too. We work through the component list and identify the exact culprit.